What is biomimicry?
Biomimicry can be defined as “innovation inspired by nature” or “the conscious emulation of life’s genius” (Janine M. Benyus). By learning the true purpose of materials in nature, we can better understand how to use them for human-made applications.

What is bacterial cellulose (BC)?Bacterial cellulose (BC) is a biofilm of cellulose fibres produced by bacteria. Scientifically speaking, BC is a three-dimensional matrix of randomly oriented pure cellulose fibres. BC can be produced by bacteria such as Komagataeibacter xylinus, which is readily found in the fermentation process of kombucha, where it is known as SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast). Bacteria such as K. Xylinus produce densely packed crystalline structures of BC to protect its natural environment, allowing the aerobic (oxygen requiring) bacteria to survive at the liquid-air interface. By considering the purpose of BC in nature, how can we best use this resource for human applications?

Bacterial cellulose vs plant cellulose?Contrary to plant cellulose, bacterial cellulose is a source of pure cellulose fibres, free of lignin and hemicellulose. BC shows high crystallinity, excellent mechanical performance (both in wet and dry state), high water retention capacity and is biodegradable. In material and product development, the biggest challenge is to figure out how to process BC without compromising its promising properties.

What applications can bacterial cellulose be used for?
In nature, BC is used for protection. Can we use it for the same purpose in human-made applications? If we think about plant cellulose in today’s industries, it is already used for protection purposes, whether by processing it into yarn to produce fabric and clothing to protect our bodies, or to make paper products and packaging to protect food and other perishables.

Could bacterial cellulose be used in fashion?
Fashion and material designers have been considering BC as a possible alternative to leather for the past two decades but it hasn’t been industrially developed yet. We need to take into consideration that leather is composed of collagen (proteins), whereas BC is made up of cellulose (polysaccharides). Due to structural differences, it is still debated whether BC would be a good alternative for leather. If we look into the production of synthetic leather, we see that cellulose is already used in its production process to make the base fabric (which is later covered with PVC or PU). So, could BC serve as a replacement for leather? The answer to this question requires further research into the biomaterial, as well as interdisciplinary collaboration between polymer scientists, designers and the textile industry.

How can we create an ethical and circular production system for BC materials in the fashion industry?
The current state of the fashion and textile industries lead to waste, pollution and social inequality. If BC were to be used as a replacement for conventional textiles such as leather, a holistic growth system for this material would have to be put into place. The production, use and disposal of BC would have to be carefully designed and engineered. This task is an interdisciplinary one as each step of the process comes with its own challenges. Examples of important questions to ask: Which bacteria, growth conditions and energy sources would be used to cultivate BC? How would the BC composite material be processed? Which chemicals would be used in the treatment process and how would they be recycled? What would the equipment and facilities look like? Which dyes and finishes would be used to create the final product? All of these questions must be deliberated and answered with social, environmental and economical impacts in mind.